1882-04-02:1882-04-02

Returning for a new sledge runner.

Sunday April 2nd 1882

On our way back to snowhouse after our accident last night I told the Dr. that I could make the trip to home station, Fort Conger, and return on foot in five days and offered to go. It was the only way out of our difficulty that suggested itself. I thought a sledge runner could be made for us at short notice and the loss of time, although considerable, was not so great as to necessarily frustrate our plans for the trip. To give up after spending so much time and effort would have been a great disappointment. I sympathized most sincerely with the Dr. to whom the misfortune was greater than to myself. Dr. Pavy was at first quite averse to my project as it appears to him rather too hazardous. After discussing the matter for some time I overcame his objections and desired to start at once—but I will here copy my report which I submitted for his information when making up his arrival report to the commanding officer after our return.

In accordance with your request I hereby submit a short statement of the main features of my uneventful trip to the home Station—to procure sledge runner—while a member of your northern sledge party in March and April of this year. We, as you will remember, left Lincoln Bay for the North at 6:30 p.m. April 1st, and the false start resulting in our misfortune at Cape Union—and our return to the snowhouse, occupy five and a half hours. Another hour was passed in waiting for the ramekin of tea you prepared for us making preparation after which —at 10 am., April 2nd I started accompanied by Jens. We took with us the shoe of our broken runner as I thought it would expedite the work at Fort Conger. Our outfit was extremely simple consisting of a small spirit lamp, a small quantity of spirits, and sufficient processed meat and chocolate for a lunch. We also carried large knives with which to dig ourselves a burrow in the hard snow should be overtaken by storm or accident before reaching the first possible stopping place—the snowhouse at Shift Rudder Bay. The thermometer when we started -42, and the sun was just appearing above the rough icy horizon to the north pouring a flood of light down the straits and consorting and glistening on the hummocks and icepoints in our path, in a manner that caused us to lose sight of the beauty of the scene, in the discomfort experienced in the effect upon our eyes. It was difficult for us to wear the snow goggles as the condensing moisture obscured our vision and rendered our step uncertain.

Thinking we could effect a shorter route by foot over the Bay then that necessarily taken by the loaded sledges we struck across directly for the bold point of Cape Frederick VII. We soon found ourselves completely beset by snowdrifts and hummocks and were glad to see the original path as indicated by the marks of the sledge. We traveled rapidly checking our pace only when an alternative in carrying the shoe and examined our faces which sometimes required the application of a warm hand to efface the white seal of Jack Frost. Considerable elation was felt when our stopping place at Wrangle Bay—representing one days march while outward hummocks, rubble ice and snowdrifts at the entrance to Wrangle Bay. We sometimes fell in with the bear tracks and inadvertently following them for a short distance found the traveling so much improved that we unhesitatingly followed them through the intricacies of the ice along the ice foot. The advantages of Bruin’s superior icepilotage partly condoned his offence in eating our pemmican. We began to weary about the time Cape Beechy was doubled and the remaining four miles, along the long course of Shift Rudder Bay was made with much difficulty. Jens who before had always a reassuring smile and shake of the head for answer to my “tired Jens” now began to answer less confidently and soon replied with a strong affirmative, although reminded me when his tum for carrying the shoe came. The walking from Cape Beechy to depot “B” was most tiresome — although smoother— as the frosty, sandy snow resting on the ice furnished a very unstable foothold for our polished moccasins at each step slipped back half the stride already too short. Despite our strong desire to move, our progress, without occasional rest, was not easy to make, and a line of small decayed hummocks fringing our road- furnished us with resting places. So soon as we would touch the icy seat I would find myself dozing and would find Jens with his hand on his heart or lying full length upon the snow fast asleep. When near depot “B” Jens pushed to stop and rest, but I induced him to move along until within a few hundred yards of our destination. I then left him lying in the snow and hastened to the hut intending to look to him so soon as a fire was started. He joined me in about 20 minutes. Doubtless Jens exhaustion was due to the greater exertions and worry he had undergone in getting the dogs with the broken sledge back to Lincoln Bay for I am sure that his powers of endurance are greater than mine. We reached the snowhouse at 2:30 p.m.—altogether traveling 19 hours traveling and covering at least 40 miles. it is difficult to state exactly the distance traveled as our route was necessarily serpentine and tortuous through the ice and a long detour had to be made in getting out of Lincoln Bay

We turned in a sleeping bag after a hasty meal of baked beans which we gave hardly time to thaw. I intended resuming the march in a few hours—so soon as we were rested—but did not succeed in waking up until 8 oclock next morning (April 3rd).

Our foot gear we had trusted to the influence of the stove, but found so frozen we were compelled to return to the sleeping bag and nurse them back to state sufficiently flexible to admit of putting them on our feet. We started for home Station at 11 a.m. Attempted several short cuts to shorten the 18 1/2 miles between us and home, but with the exception of the one across Brenta Bay, found the traveling more difficult than if we had followed the icefoot. At St. Patrick’s Bay, especially, did we fare badly. The weather was very (pleasant) compelling us to doff our (tirmiaks) (parkas) and carry them suspended to our belts. Our sudden and unexpected arrival at Fort Conger causes some considerable excitement and apprehension for our safety. On reporting to our Commanding officer he at once ordered the work on sledge runner to commence, and it was continued up to midnight. We learned that the large North Greenland sledge party had just departed and I had missed meeting them by cutting across country from Watercourse Bay, while they followed the coast around Distant Cape.

On Thursday April 4th after another good meal surrounded by the comparatively luxurious appointments of Fort Conger Jens and I started back to join you. The sledge runner has completed as Lt. Greely made the arrangement so advantageous to us that it would follow us to Depot “B” with Lt. Lockwood who was to start in a few hours with Jewell, Frederick and the dog sledge to join the main party. We arrived at Depot “B” at 11:30 p.m. after 8 hrs tramp and found the Greenland party just arrived from Depot “C” Cape Murchison where they had passed the first night. Lt. Lockwood with dog sledge arrived at 3 a.m. the next morning.

Wednesday April 5th at 3:30 p.m. we bid “goodbye” to the Greenlanders who had entertained us so kindly, and moved on northward. We carried the runner by supporting party of its weight allowing the end only to drag. We assumed the burden alternately and made very good time. The temperature when starting was only -22°, but the cold increased perceptively although we had no measuring its intensity. We made a detour that avoided the hummocks and gave us smoother traveling across Wrangle Bay. Stopped to ascertain the state of cache at North Side and found it undisturbed. Melted a little ice to quench our thirst and continued around Mount Parry. It was then midnight. The morning of Thursday, April 6th dawned bright and clear and we entered Lincoln Bay in a blaze of light. On nearing the snowhouse Jens was received with more than three cheers by his dogs and a few moments later I was giving you the latest news from Fort Conger.